Upperline (Great local art, open Sundays)

Every funky room at this Uptown standard exudes a welcome energy and drips with local artwork — thanks to the effort (and considerable collection) of owner, local fixture and bon vivant JoAnn Clevenger. She works the front of the house like a charismatic dervish as executive Ken Smith dedicates himself to dishes like a definitive dark-roux duck gumbo and fried green tomatoes topped with spicy shrimp remoulade.

4501 TCOUPITOULAS ST

504/894-9880

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